Amelia Island: The Victorian Antidote

30 minutes north via A1A. Fernandina Beach is the antidote to modern Florida. A 50-block National Register district of Victorian and Queen Anne buildings that survived because the economy declined after the railroad left, and what poverty preserved, tourists eventually restored.

The Palace Saloon at 117 Centre Street: open since 1903, oldest continuously operating bar in Florida. Hand-carved mahogany bar, stamped tin ceiling, murals behind bottles. The craft cocktail movement has spent two decades trying to manufacture this atmosphere from scratch. The drinks are simple. The room does the work. Fort Clinch State Park at the south end: wide uncrowded beach backed by a Civil War-era brick fort, still impressively intact, weekend living-history interpreters.

A1A north from Jacksonville passes the Talbot Island state parks — worth stopping. Centre Street has four walkable blocks. Shrimp boats still dock at the marina.